The Twelve Brewers of Christmas 6: Wicklow Wolf

Two things we like here at TBN HQ are black IPA and Pink Floyd references, and Wicklow Wolf has us covered for both today.

First it's the black IPA, a modestly strong one called Whirlpool Galaxy, at 5.5% ABV. As the name implies, Galaxy hops have been added late in the brewing process, though otherwise information is scant. It's one of those not-quite-black black IPAs, being a deep chocolate brown with an off-white head. Fresh and fruity goes the aroma: mandarin segments and even a little juice, with only a faint burnt-grain backing. The texture is light, almost to the point of seeming thin and watery when served cold. Again the dark grain side is muted, arriving late with not much more than toast scrapings and dry ash. Otherwise it's all about the hops, bringing a serious grapefruit bitterness followed by the juicy mandarin effect from the aroma. What's there is good, but I wanted more of it: bigger, thicker, bitterer, roastier. It's a bit of a weak tea without all that.

The other one is not weak tea, it's 11% ABV. The only wateriness is Roger Wateriness in Dark Sarcasm, an imperial stout aged in cognac barrels. The added factor is definitely grape-based but I wouldn't have guessed brandy. On the first taste it's an almost sour tang, like a herbal vermouth or some kind of dark and sticky sherry, and a little shocking. Taking a proper sip to let the palate calibrate, the oak emerges as the main flavour, raw and sappy. The wine or sherry arrives behind it, and finally a billowing cloud of alcoholic vapours. I guess you could combine these serial aspects into something resembling cognac, but it doesn't really taste like it as presented. It took a bit of getting used to. While I was doing that it was possible to appreciate that there's a very good imperial stout forming the foundation, bringing a square or two of quality dark chocolate and a sweet cherry and rosewater effect that's separate to the barrel. Both sides are equally represented in the heady aroma. It's a little on the busy side, and not a beer to rush. Take it at a leisurely pace and there's a lot to explore and enjoy. It's certainly not a by-the-numbers barrel-aged imperial stout.

In a competitive marketplace, Wicklow Wolf is the best performer for dark beers in Ireland. I feared from the first one that their position could be in jeopardy, but the second shows that it's not.