‘Tony’ Turns Flawed Chef Into Compelling Anti-Hero

You don’t have to like the late Anthony Bourdain to love his origin story.

It might even help to go in cold. “Tony” shares what the world-famous chef was like as a young man, and it’s far from pretty.

Rude. Entitled. Arrogant. Duplicitous.

We shouldn’t root for such a figure. We do, thanks to a superlative lead turn and a script that knows none of us are perfect.

Some are less perfect than others, but a person’s potential often matters most. And we know the real Bourdain had potential to burn. That’s what makes “Tony” an extra special treat.

Dominic Sessa, best known for “The Holdovers,” stars as the young Bourdain. Call him Tony, please. 

He fails to snag a prestigious fellowship before setting off to Provincetown, in large part to chase a girl (Emilia Jones, one of many strong supporting turns).

He’s broke and blustery, a combination that gets him kicked out of a restaurant bar in short order. The head chef takes pity on Tony, hiring him to clean dishes and even sleep on his front porch.

Antonio Banderas plays Chef, and it’s a perfect match for the star’s gentle charm and inquisitive mien. 

Now, you may think you know where this story is going, but it’s far messier at every step of the journey. Tony’s dark side is never far below the surface. He’s manipulative and brash, assuming the world owes him too many favors to count.

Fat chance. He’s still a sponge, watching the small town bustle around him and picking up lessons along the way. They’re not always the best lessons, but through Sessa’s sensitive performance you can see his mental cogs churning.

Director/co-screenwriter Matt Johnson (“BlackBerry”) wrings the most out of every piece in this imperfect puzzle. Performances are pitch perfect while the seaside setting and music enhance Tony’s crash and burn lifestyle.

Tony’s affection for Jones’ Nancy gives him a sense of purpose, but what kind of a man will he be should he ever win her heart?

The film’s bleak underbelly makes Tony’s transformation satisfying and real. This isn’t a paint-by-numbers biopic. Heck, the only predictable part of the journey is knowing he’ll refer to himself as Anthony, not Tony, as some point in the third act.

Sorry, not sorry about the lack of a spoiler alert.

“Tony” understands a good biopic doesn’t have to hit all the expected beats. They should exist on their own, untethered by expectations and talking points. 

That’s where “Tony” shines. That, plus an impeccable sense of place and character. The P-town setting feels welcoming, a hurried hamlet where people can show you their best and worst sides in an afternoon.

Need more? The restaurant’s kitchen proves endlessly entertaining, from the boastful Dimitri (Stavros Halkias) to the charming bad boy Sal (Leo Woodall, who threatens to steal a scene or two).

Foodies will delight in select scenes, although Johnson resists the easy visual cues and focuses on what makes cooking so special.

The real Bourdain would have loved those moments, we bet.

Would he cheer the rest of the film? We’ll never know, but audiences craving smart, nuanced storytelling will feast on “Tony.” Oscar voters may do the same.

HiT or Miss: 4 out of 5 stars
Genre: Drama/biopic
Runtime: 1h 46m
Where to Watch: Theaters
Family Friendly? No. Adult language, violence, sex, drug use and mature themes.

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