I have just returned from a month’s gallivanting around mainland China. It’s taken me 20 years to get there but it’s been worth the wait. China has to be one of the most diverse countries I have explored. And I have hit almost 90 now. The landscape is jaw-droppingly beautiful, the food culture is astonishing: […]
I have just returned from a month’s gallivanting around mainland China. It’s taken me 20 years to get there but it’s been worth the wait.
China has to be one of the most diverse countries I have explored. And I have hit almost 90 now. The landscape is jaw-droppingly beautiful, the food culture is astonishing: in some regions it is fiery and spicy and eaten with handmade noodles, in other provinces it’s delicate, and vegetable heavy and served with rice. Chickens are eaten in the mountains (easier to raise) whereas livestock is prominent on menus elsewhere. Even the physical features of people are markedly different across provinces and also their behaviour and lifestyle. But one thing all of the provinces I visited showed me, was that this is a nation of hospitable people, who are grossly underestimated and demonised thanks to stereotype and communism. Only one other country in the world has left a similar impression on me, and that is India. A country full of contradictions and wonder in equal measure.
I never thought I would make it to mainland China this year, but that’s down to my Chiang Mai friend “Noodle” who invited me over. I was meant to go just for a week, eat my body weight in dumplings, see her village and come home. But then I started researching and realised I was making a huge mistake not staying for longer.
My first taste has exceeded my expectations. It is very easy to travel to, stay in and eat well in China. Your biggest hurdle is getting a visa. Now I am retired, this was much simpler. Next year, I am planning to return to explore more provinces – Inner Mongolia and perhaps the highway that borders Pakistan are in my sights.
This September I climbed several mountains (none at altitude), saw red pandas and great pandas, learnt how to crack bamboo. Stared into the faces of the Terracotta Army, walked the ancient walls of Xi’an (pronounced SHE-AN), ate extraordinary food and blew my head off with a Hot Pot so spicy it gave me tongue paralysis for several hours. I dodged the super Typhoon and hid in the mountains for longer, a very happy accident. Gorged on dim sum, and fresh bao buns, drank “duck shit” lemon ice tea and spent quality time getting to know my Chinese friends, and had the privilege to meet some of their family, all on home turf. I learned Chinese table manners and how to pour and drink tea. “Don’t let it brew a long time, it will taste bitter,” scolded Noodle, as i watched the water turn from golden yellow to orange. Ooops.
Yes there is a lot of control and tracking in China. But is the UK any better these days? There are plans to introduce a mandatory Brit ID card. This has shaken a lot of people I know. I watch from Asia, with horror at the hypocrisy of western governments and wonder whether the word “democracy” needs to be rethought. China is not a scary country to visit, if anything I felt welcomed and hosted very well by the strangers I met. I felt zero racism. People were curious to know more about me and where I am from. You dont see many foreigners and certainly very few single female travellers my age.
All foreigners need to carry their passports all the time in China. When you buy a ticket for a train or an art gallery or an event, your passport number becomes your ticket. So you have to scan or show it to gain access.
Security everywhere is strict which makes China feel very safe. At train stations all bags are scanned like in an airport. Depending on the officer and how bothered they can be, some may ignore large liquid bottles others will confiscate anything over 100ml. Sharp objects like scissors or knives and anything flammable, like hairspray or aerosols are also binned.
Getting onto the platform is only allowed 15 mins before departure. You must queue and watch the board for when check-in is called. Then it is a swift passing of the barriers, boarding and off you go. Nationals have to scan their ID cards to pass the barrier. So when you are on the train there is no ticket inspector. The bullet train is wonderfully efficient, clean and very, very affordable.
I travelled in 1st class on the bullet train from Xi’an to Chengdu in Sichuan Province (£40) which took 4 hours and I travelled second class when I visited a town called Leshan to see the Giant Buddha (71m) carved into the rock face. It dates back to 8th century and is the oldest relic i have clapped eyes on. Both journeys were easy and comfortable. I wore a mask but the trains were not overcrowded, dirty or noisy! The UK could learn a thing or two.
Bags have to be scanned in the metro too. I used three different underground networks in three cities: Guangzhou, Xi’an and Chengdu. You also have to pass through a metal detector. A single journey is so cheap (around £2 to go faaaar), it makes London prices look absurd.
China is also the most digitally advanced nation I have been to. Without a phone life is impossible. If your battery dies then your cash flow dies too. Money is legal tender but don’t expect anyone to have change. Even hotels expect you to pay via Alipay or WeChat. Ordering food or drink are done scanning menus and ticking boxes online with little to no interaction with staff. I have no idea how the elderly cope?!
I didn’t like this aspect of China. I am old fashioned and I think human contact, even verbal, is important in society to keep us communicating and building networks. The fabric of what makes us human is being eroded away by technology every year. It’s probably why I live in Chiang Mai. Here my phone battery lasts all day and still has more than 30 per cent by bedtime. In China, by lunch time, I was looking for a plug socket.
If you want to stay connected to the outside word, then you need data roaming or a VPN. I downloaded Amaps (also known as Gaode) for navigation, food and coffee options, Didi for taxis, WeChat for paying and communicating with people and used google translate for everything!
Safety is my number one concern as a solo female traveller. And China has to be one of the easiest and safest places I have visited, if you are open to using another language. No one speaks English, and why should they? I also felt incredibly well-supported and loved by the three friends I saw. 非常感謝！
Moon I met during my voyage to The Arctic last year and she welcomed me into China with a dim sum feast and roasted goose in Guangzhou (Canton). I then had a few days to adjust and soak up the city vibe which reminded me a lot of Hong Kong and Macau. Stupidly I decided to try acupuncture which was torturous and is never to be repeated ha!
Moana (her English nickname) flew from Wuhan (yes the city now famous for being the covid epicenter) to meet me in Shandong. It was impromptu and a wonderful surprise to have a hiking buddy. We summited Tai Shan – one of the five sacred Taoist mountains in China that lies in the North East. We did it in a little over 3 hours. The average is meant to take between 4-5 hours.
Shandong province has a stunning landscape of impressive granite peaks, green forests, fertile flood plains and it’s also where the philosopher Confucius was born. The climb to the summit temple involves 7000 steps with a gradient that will send your quad muscles into spasms. Expect to hear a lot of local people wailing hahah!
In Xi’an I ate noodles non stop, they were handmade and so incredible I have no words. The Muslim quarter also had some beautiful lamb dishes and the most interesting markets. I made a new friend in Sichuan, a guide at the Panda sanctuary, Betty is her name, we bonded in the cafeteria after I went back for second helpings of local food. Sichuan uses a lot of peppercorns, it is a different kind of heat to Thai chilies, and you earn a badge of honour if you can handle it. I saw a lot of tourists eating plain rice that day, which made me feel very depressed, haha!
And finally “Lai Fen” (Rice Noodle), my CNX friend who let me stay with her for 3 days, in her apartment in Gaoming. We saw unbelievable Lion dancing by martial artists in Foshan, visited a ceramics village, and she introduced me to her wonderful sisters who took me out for a killer last meal at their family’s favourite restaurant. I am very grateful for her wonderful hospitality. She has now made it impossible for me to eat dim sum outside of China! Argghhhhhhh.
My journey this past month has been eye-opening in many ways. If you have never considered China as a travel destination, please rethink. Set aside your preconceived ideas and be open to new experiences. Most people will probably book a tour, but if you’re feeling adventurous you will get the most out of independent travel, it just needs a wee bit more effort.
China really is a country that has something for everyone to enjoy from spectacular nature, history, glorious architecture and antiquities, wildlife, and phenomenal food you will never be able to taste outside of the motherland!
